Friday, December 3, 2010

It's that time again...

The time has come yet again to make the age-old decision; stay abroad another year, or go home? I'm actually split three ways right now between moving home to Minnesota, moving to South America to teach (I've been fantasizing about living in a Spanish or Portuguese-speaking country for a while now) and staying at my current school.

The factors to consider are pretty much the same as they always have been: I love traveling, trying new things, pushing myself to live outside of my comfort zone...and not paying rent :) At the same time, I miss my family and friends. I miss feeling like I belong, and the sense of security I feel living near my family. And I HATE missing out on important events, such as one of my best friend's weddings this April, and my little brother's theatrical debut in his high school play this fall, just to name a few. Ever since I made the decision to leave Minnesota 3 years ago, this has been a constant internal dilemma. (Ok, maybe not so internal considering I blog about and talk to everyone I know about it...)

3 months ago it would have been a no-brainer. There was definitely an adjustment period where I thought I must have been insane for voluntarily choosing my current position. But my school has grown on me, my kids have grown on me, Pak Chong, the podunk town I live in, has grown on me.

I have moments where I think, 'wow, this is so cool, I'm definitely staying.' 5 minutes later a wave of homesickness will wash over me and I'll change my tune.

Yesterday was a prime example; During 7th period, I had only one student in class, so we joined up with Year 9 students going on their weekly visit to the elephant conservation center just 15 minutes down the road. The year 9 kiddos worked on their community service projects, my year 13 student took photos, while my year 12 student interviewed the director of the center for the newsletter we are putting together to market the school. Spending my Friday afternoon at work hanging out with elephants in the gorgeous December sunshine (the weather is magnificent right now) while my students are actually learning something... how cool is that?

Because I work where I do and our school is so small there are endless opportunities to extend learning beyond the classroom, something that I think is really important. I've always thought that part of my role as a high school teacher is to help students see that there is a great big world out there beyond the confines of the school walls.

Then I went home to my hut and watched a few sappy, family-oriented episodes of Gossip Girl (shameful, I know) and I started thinking that maybe I'm over this 'living on the other side of the world from the people I love' thing.

My friend/neighbor/coworker Nicole gave me some solid advice that I think I will follow. This year I am fortunate enough to be able to spend 2 weeks at home for Christmas. (First time in two years!) She said when I'm coming back to Thailand, if it's hard to leave, then I'll know. I'm hoping that going home and getting my friend/family fix will put things into perspective. Until then, I'm just as torn as ever.

Tuesday, November 23, 2010

Today's Screenshot



"Pak Chong is not a valid city"

Like I needed Gmail to tell me that...

Good riddance, rainy season!

(Written October 30th)

Upon our return from Bali, the rain stopped and "cold season" was upon us. As a Minnesotan, I've experienced blistering cold, sub-zero winters and was a bit skeptical, but it actually is cold right now. Granted I live in a poorly insulated bamboo hut, but as I'm writing this, I'm sitting at my computer wearing long sleeves, long pants, and fuzzy socks with a fleece blanket wrapped around me.

Let it be known, I am not complaining in the least; merely observing. Pretty much any weather is better than the miserable, incessant rain that causes clothes to grow mold spots and my allergies to go berserk.

Life in Pak Chong from here on out will drastically improve. Plus, only 7 more weeks until my next vacation ;)

October Break Part I: Bangkok Music Marathon



On our first day of vacation, we headed down to Bangkok for Bangkok Music Marathon. Like I said before, I hadn't really gotten into Thai rock yet. What I had heard, I found really repetitive and borderline cheesy at times. However, this is how I initially felt about K-pop, a genre which is now very near and dear to my heart :)

The concert was a blast, and although it's still cheesy and repetitive, I'm developing more of an appreciation for Thai rock. It's much better live, for one thing, and we also got to hang out with a few of the musicians milling about near the stage, which always helps. Also, did I mention that Thai rock bands have awesomely ridiculous names, like "Body Slam," "Sweet Mullet," Big Ass," and "Potato"?

Here are my favorite acts of the night:

"Da" of Da Endorphine

This chick rocks. While a lot of Da Endorphine's songs are of the cheesy, sappy persuasion, 'Da' has an amazing voice and great stage presence. She was very fun to watch.

Thaitanium



Thaitanium, a Thai-American hip hop group, was hands down the best act of the night. One of the members was born in New York City, so they have a lot more street cred. than some of the other "rappers" here in Asia (Big Bang, I love you, but you are SO not gangster!)

Da + Thaitanium - even better!


Hanging out with a Thai rock star:

(Me & the guitarist from 'Jetseter')

A good time was had by all :)

Saturday, October 30, 2010

Vacation!

(Written October 14, 2010)

So I've survived the first eight weeks of my teaching contract here in Thailand. It's been rough... I've had many "moments," but things should be a lot more smooth from here on out. This weekend the gang (a small group of teachers I work with) and I are heading to Bangkok to a Thai Rock Music Festival. They are huge fans, and while I haven't quite jumped on the bandwagon yet, I'm hoping after this weekend I'll be more keen* on Thai rock. (*I've picked up a lot of British slang working at a British school)

Sunday we are going to see Eat, Pray Love in preparation for Bali, and Sunday evening we fly to Kuala Lumpur. I could have skipped KL, honestly, and gone straight to Bali, but over the past few days I've been doing research and the shopping is supposed to be fantastic. I am going to allow myself to splurge a bit since I haven't bought ANY new clothes in the last 8 weeks, which is very very good for me. They also have Forever 21, which I developed a fondness for while living in Seoul because it's cheap and they actually had foreigner sizes.

After a few days exploring Kuala Lumpur, we're flying to Bali and spending the first 4 days in Kuta, which is on the coast. After that, we'll head up to Ubud for a few days, which is up in the mountains and supposed to be the cultural heart of Bali. I liken it to Thailand's Chiang Mai, and Kuta to Phuket.

The thought of this vacation is what's been getting me through the hours and hours of lesson planning and miserable rainy weekends in the hut. I cannot wait.

Vegetarian Taryn

(Written October 3rd, 2010)

Since moving abroad I've met a lot of vegetarians , like Ashley, my vegetarian, animal activist BFF in Korea. Although it often put a damper on eating out for us carnivores, I always found her choice commendable, and I've said on multiple occasions that I'd like to be a vegetarian on principle, (mostly because it's better for the environment) but that meat is just too damn good.

I've also seen some horrifying ways that animals are treated before they are killed while living in Korea and Thailand, but it wasn't until I started reading Dr. Joel Fuhrman's "Eat to Live" on Ashley's recommendation that I got the nudge I needed to start.

I knew that being a vegetarian is healthier for you and that everyone should probably be eating more fruits and vegetables, but I didn't realize HOW bad animal products are for you over time. I'm not going to attempt to explain all the health benefits of an animal product-free diet here, but if you are interested in learning more, here's Dr. Fuhrman's website.

But Furhman's Eat to Live diet isn't just about cutting out animal products; processed foods that contain food additives and high levels of sodium and sugar are just as bad for you. As a physician, he says that a lot of the ailments he treats patients for are 100% avoidable. We (as in Americans) are killing ourselves with the food choices we make.

Preventing cancer, heart disease, type II diabetes, migraines (which I suffer from) was the motivation I needed. Weight loss is just a happy side effect :)

Basically, Fuhrman says that for optimal health, the bulk of your caloric intake should come from nutrient-dense foods, so green vegetables, fruits, and legumes should be at the bottom of the food pyramid. After that, whole grains in limited amounts, and then fat free dairy and poultry, and on the very top of the pyramid, fats, oils, sweets, cheese (he really hates cheese; it's very high in unsaturated fat, which is apparently the worst kind) and finally, processed foods & beef.



So, mainly for health reasons, I'm giving this vegetarianism and part-time veganism thing a try. I say 'part-time' veganism because I don't think I can entirely eliminate cheese from my diet. I spent 3 years of my childhood living in Wisconsin, after all :)

But I really think I could stand to cut refined carbohydrates, sugar and processed foods from my diet as much as possible. As someone who doesn't really cook, they are a big part of my diet, and they have almost no nutritional value.

I'll let you know how it goes.

October 31st update: I've been happily meat-free for 30 days now :)

Wednesday, September 29, 2010

Sweet Civilization

This past weekend I went to Bangkok, for no particular reason other than I just needed to get out of the village. The previous weekend, it rained all day Saturday and most of the day Sunday and we were cooped up inside the damp huts the whole time with shoddy internet service. I went a bit stir crazy. This weekend I wasn't going to leave fate in the hands of this cursed rainy season.

The trip was exactly what I needed; I got to walk around the city, shop, chill by the pool, eat Korean and Western food, attend a yoga class, drink really good wine, admire cute boys (Pak Chong is lacking in that department... at least ones that are as tall as I am) browse an English bookstore, etc. Basically I indulged in all of the things I can't get in Pak Chong.

It's probably a good thing I live in the countryside after all, because I dropped some serious baht in a very short period of time. But it is nice to know that civilization is only a 2 hour, 180 baht van ride away.

A few highlights:

I was very happy to stumble upon "Koreantown," located along Sukhumvit Road between Nana and Asoke BTS Stops. There are several decent Korean restaurants and a Korean Food Mart.


Big surprise, the area was full of Korean tourists, who come all the way to Thailand just to eat Korean food. So typical.

I spent the rest of the afternoon at Siam Paragon, a classy shopping mall located at Siam BTS Stop

Kinokuniya Bookstore, where most of my baht went

Okay, so we actually do have DQ in Pak Chong, but I was on an indulgence kick
Coffee/Oreo Blizzard...mmmm. Do we have this in the States?

I devoured this magical pizza after a 90 minute yoga/pilates class. The calories even out, right? ;)

The restaurant is called Pomodoro, right by Nana station on Sukhumvit. Try the Cabarnet Sauvignon; it's worth all 260 baht.

Ahhh... can't wait to go back :)

Thursday, September 23, 2010

Wai Kru

This morning our school held a "Wai Kru" Ceremony, a ritual during which Thai students formally pay respects to their teachers. Initially I was excited because it meant I had one less lesson to prepare for today, my busiest teaching day of the week. But it was actually a really neat ceremony that left me feeling really good about my decision to teach here, something I've questioned more than once in the past few weeks. (See last few postings)

First, the entire student body knelt and said a chant in Thai, expressing gratitude for the hard work that we teachers do and asking us to bless their academic studies. This was followed by a song in Thai that had a similar message.



Then a representative from our respective homeroom classes presented us with flower arrangements they had prepared the night before. Other students gave us flower bracelets (not sure what they are called officially) and the student who gave me my bracelet knelt down, took my hand and very sincerely told me she wished that I would be very happy in my life.

How cool is that? A high school student wishing her teacher happiness? Not something I can imagine transpiring while teaching in "the West."



The ceremony itself was great, but the best part was when one of the Year 13 students who was an M.C. talked about how the students voted him the most "eloquent" speaker.

"Eloquence" was one of our weekly vocabulary words, and I wondered if he maybe incorporated it into his speech after learning it in my class. Then I thought, nahhh, he probably just translated it from Thai.

But afterwards, he said, "Ms. Taryn, did you hear me use "eloquent" in my speech?" and proceeded to tell me he deliberately put it in there!

We teachers live for these sparse, yet validating moments. I've spent more time lesson planning in the past five weeks than I maybe ever have in my life, and because I'm still getting used to the curriculum here and figuring out my students' ability levels and the UK teacher lingo, etc. etc., I often wonder if all the time I spend preparing lessons or drilling grammar is getting us anywhere; whether anything is sticking. It seemed like it wasn't, considering I spent the first week drilling subject-verb agreement with all classes, a mistake that still shows up all over the place in their written and spoken English.

But it's nice to know that something is sticking, and that the work I've put in is appreciated.

Happy Wai Kru, and a special shout out to the teachers who don't get ceremonies where flower arrangements are placed at their feet. Outside of Asia, teaching can be a thankless profession.

Year 8's Arrangement (My homeroom)


I should have sent these kids back to class, but instead participated in a class-delaying photo shoot

Glass half-full

Sunday, September 19th

I was having a bit of a freak out moment today when it was raining and I was trapped in the hut, wishing I were in a big city like Seoul, or back home, but I'm okay now.

I just read through some old blog postings and it reassured me that everything will be fine. Civilization will be waiting for me when I want to go back, whether that's home or another country or another U.S. city (which I've been thinking about lately).

It's only been a month. It's going to take a little more time to get the hang of things and I need to not be so hard on myself for not being a perfect teacher from the get-go. There's no way I'm going to have a perfect lesson plan every day when I'm prepping for 4-5 different classes.

Hopefully the kids are learning something even if the lessons have been sort of scattered all over the place so far. I've been trying really hard to adapt materials and lessons to the needs of each group. It's going to take a little bit more trial and error to find what works for them and me, and I can't beat myself up about that.

I need to focus on the positives when I get down like that.

I'm learning and growing and getting good teaching experience. I'm developing lots of lessons I can use in the future. Heck, I'm going to Bali in 4 weeks and India in April! It's like my Eat, Pray, Love year.

Not to mention I'm challenging myself to live outside of my comfort zone. (read: the middle of nowhere) Not everyone could do that.

Plus I haven't bought any new clothes in over a month. That has to be like a new world record for me.

In other words, quit spazzing Taryn, everything will be fine.

I hate Thursdays

September 15th, 9:51 pm

I just sat at school for two and a half hours to prep and I really didn't get that much done. I'm having an 'overwhelmed' day. 5 different classes to prep for is a lot. Finding materials that work, making worksheets; all that takes a lot of time. I hate Thursdays.

August 18th, 5:58 am

Thoughts swirling around my head this morning @ 3:00 am: I am not cut out for this. I'm a city girl. I took this job for the wrong reasons; namely I was scared of a 2 year commitment. I also liked the way "living in a hut in the Thai jungle" sounded vs. the day to day reality.

I know it will get better. But this is a huge life adjustment. Plus I'm super overwhelmed by the idea of planning for 5 different age groups, based on a curriculum and testing system I don't know. Freaking out a little. And it doesn't help that my body still isn't on Thai time.

Have been waking up at 3 am like clockwork every night so far.

Monday, August 16, 2010

First Impressions

I've been in Pak Chong for 2 days now, trying to get over jet lag and adjusting to the sweltering heat. It's pretty much unbearable during the afternoons, but I do have AC in the bedroom of my 'hut' and in my classroom at school, thank God.

It turns out that where I'm living isn't quite as remote as I imagined. In fact, as we were driving through Pak Chong on the way to my school, we passed "Premium Outlet Khao Yai," an outlet mall that looked similar to ones in the States, complete with a Starbucks. I always find it somewhat comforting when a Starbucks is within reach, it means you can't be that far out of civilization.

However, I don't have my own means of transport yet, so for now I am pretty isolated here in the village. Most of the staff at SIS live in a cluster of bungalows across the street from the school.

My bungalow is pretty sweet. It definitely needs some sprucing up inside, but it's about 3 times as big as my apartment in Seoul. I have a REAL kitchen with an oven this time, so I have no excuses for not cooking. The porch is pretty awesome too.

The only downside (besides the heat) is my recently developed fear of snakes. I've never really liked snakes (really, who does?) but now that I'm living somewhere where they are actually a threat, I'm truly paranoid. My coworker Nicole told me that someone once found a snake in the bottom of their wardrobe, and now I keep imagining that a snake is going to jump out at any moment and attack me. (Poisonwood Bible, anyone?)

There are lots of creatures in the village; mostly geckos and all sorts of insects, and a huge toad that scared the living daylights out of me last night. All of this is going to take some getting used to. I sort of feel like I'm at camp right now, it hasn't really set in that this is my life for the next year.

Had my first day of work yesterday, this week is teacher prep and next Monday school starts. I spent most of the morning in a jet-lagged daze while a lot of information was thrown at me. It was a little overwhelming but I think today will be better. I've just been looking through the previous teacher's files and trying to piece together what she did with students on a day-to-day basis.

I found out I will have "Year 8" through "Year 13," which means students aged 12-18. The school uses the British National curriculum, which I have zero experience with, so this year will be a lot of learning as I go. I can already tell that my position here will be far more demanding than my job in Seoul, but that's what I wanted. My class sizes are really small (they estimate I'll have 10 kids per class max) so I'll actually get to know my students and I'm looking forward to that.

That's about it for now. I find myself missing Minnesota and Seoul a lot, but it was like that in the beginning in Korea as well; I just need to give it some time.

I hope this post has satiated those of you who are living vicariously :)

XoXo,
Taryn


A few pictures:

My hut
My bedroom, complete with mosquito netting

View from my front porch

The Staff Village

My School


Trying to stay awake my first day, after 22 hours of flying

Tuesday, July 20, 2010

24 days...

So I'm leaving for Thailand in less than a month.

FAQ: Are you excited?

Yeah, but I haven't thought too much about it. I've done this before, so I kind of know what to expect. I know that I'll get homesick from time to time, but overall, I'll be fine. I've also been really busy teaching summer school, taking a graduate course online, and attending various family/friend functions.

But as August 13th approaches, there some things I am a little concerned about regarding life in rural Thailand. Actually I'm not sure if where I'm living is considered rural, but it seems like the middle of nowhere from the extensive research I've done. (i.e., stalking future coworkers on Facebook)

My concerns:

1. Weather in the 80's-90's year round.

Yes, I despise January and February in Minnesota. But can I really handle the opposite extreme?

2. Cobras.

According to one of my future coworkers, they are present in the staff village. Cobras!

3. Scorpions

This photo was taken in Khao Yai National Park, just a few miles down the road from where I'll be living. Awesome!
[http://www.flickr.com/photos/eternalsun/253846691/]

4. AC in the bungalows?

I should probably ask about this. (And yes, I'll be living in a bungalow)

Photo courtesy of Corinne, future coworker I've been stalking on Facebook


5. Being an hour away from civilization

The closest legit city is Korat. Bangkok is a 2 1/2 hour bus ride away. And from what I've been told, there isn't much going on in Pak Chong, which is 10K away from the school.



7. Having to cook for myself.

I don't cook...ever. In Seoul I ate out almost all the time. I could walk down the street and order some bibimbap or kimchi jiggae at any number of little Korean restaurants in my neighborhood. I think the principal at my new school told me there is ONE Thai restaurant near the staff village. Looks like it'll be scrambled eggs or grilled cheese for dinner every night, or actually learn how to cook.

8. Availability of Western food?

I LOVE Thai food, but I know from traveling there for 2.5 weeks this spring that even Chicken Curry gets old when you have it every night for dinner.

I was spoiled in Seoul. I had immediate access to pretty much every "Western" convenience and necessity. For the items I was unable to attain, my Mom and Grandma sent care packages. I feel like they are over the whole daughter/granddaughter abroad thing now and the care packages will be few and far between.

This is going to be an interesting year. Stay tuned to see if this self-proclaimed "city girl" can hack it for a year in the Thai jungle.

Thursday, June 3, 2010

Quarter life crisis averted

When I am an old lady looking back at my life, I will probably laugh at how ridiculous I was at this moment, plauged with indecision and fear and spazzing about what to do with the next year or so of my life.

The problem is, there are too many options, and I'm always worried that I will make the "wrong" choice. So far in life, all the major decisions I've had to make turned out for the best, yet I continually freak out when faced with another one.

When I moved back home 2 months ago, I was hell bent on spending at least another year teaching abroad. However, after being home for a while I realized that moving back home, perhaps getting a job at my old school, getting an apartment downtown, finishing my Masters degree, bascially resuming my old life, would probably not be the end of the world. In fact, it seemed kind of appealing. I have a life here in Minnesota; I have friends, family, North High, and a new taekwondo school that I love. I'm turning 27 in a few days, and I feel like I'm almost ready to be a "real" grown up and and settle down. Almost.

But I've decided to give teaching abroad another go after all. I found the best of both worlds: an international school that agreed to a one year commitment. I wanted to teach at an international school (which operates like a Western school) this time around because I wanted to get back into "real" teaching, meaning have students I see every day, so I can actually learn their names, have some continuity in the curriculum, and see real progress. That didn't happen in my previous job, where it seemed my primary duty was to be a walking dictionary and grammar book for the Korean English teachers.

The problem with international schools is that most require a two year commitment. Why is this a problem? For some reason, the idea of committing to something for two years scares me to death. I keep thinking; I'll be 29 and SINGLE when I move back home, (dear God, the horror!) even though I know that's completely ridiculous.

I turned down what would have been a great job in Korea for that very reason. Also, I figured if I'm sacrificing another year away from friends and family, I needed to try something new. That was the whole point of going abroad in the first place.

Anyway, after all the freaking out, and talking to ANYONE who would listen about my dilemma, I accepted a position at an international school near Khao Yai National Park in Thailand. It will be completely different from Seoul, which scared me at first, but I think it will be a nice change. Basically; I'll be living in a hut in the jungle in the middle of nowheresville Thailand.

Maybe I'll love it, and stay a second year anyway, but I like that I have the option of moving back home after a year if I decide I'm ready to be a real grown up then, or if I decide I need to come back to civilization.

But I think being out of "civilization" for a while will be good for me. I've always lived in the city, and I think I need to get away from the wealth, status and fashion-obsessed environment that was Seoul. I really need to get some bills paid off, and living in a city where designer handbags and heels are practically a uniform wasn't helping with that situation.

I've written in this blog before that I freak out about decisions like this, but in the end, it all mysteriously works out. And it has once again. (Future self; take note)

Sunday, May 9, 2010

Adventures in Subbing

First graders are unreal adorable.
I've only subbed for 1st grade a few times, but each time I come home with a pile of artwork resembling the above piece.

Thursday, May 6, 2010

New K-drama with 이민호!

Since my departure from Korea just over two months ago, I seem to have forgotten all the uber-frustrating times and I'm romanticizing my time there. My poor family and friends are undoubtedly sick of hearing about how much I miss Korea, about how certain things are better there (namely food portions that don't render one obese) and many have been subjected to lengthy K-pop video viewing sessions on Youtube.

I think I'm more obsessed with Korean pop culture now than I was when I lived there.

Case in point: today I didn't have any subbing jobs lined up, so I spent a good chunk of the day in my PJ's catching up on the K-drama that I'm addicted to, "Personal Taste," which stars Lee Minho of "Boys over Flowers" fame.

He's back!

I'm not in Korea anymore, but I'm guessing it's big there considering its popularity on Mysoju.com, where I watch it with English subtitles.

As was the case with 'Boys over Flowers," any success this show has cannot be attributed to captivating storyline or superb acting, because it's awful. Yet I keep watching, because of Lee Minho and his eye-candy appeal. There are lots of long, drawn out moments where the camera is zoomed in on his pretty face.

I also read on my favorite K-pop website that the snazzy, albeit feminine, clothes he wears on the show are highly sought after in Korea right now. I can just imagine the men of Seoul decked out in the frilly suit coats he sports on the show.

"Now where did I leave my murse?"


I love it though. Bring on the ruffles :)

Here's a sneak peek of "Personal Taste"

Thursday, April 8, 2010

After traveling in Asia for a month, I wasn't exactly looking forward to coming back to Minnesota. Don't get me wrong, I love Minnesota, and someday I plan to move back here for good, but life is just a lot more exciting when you live abroad. I'll put it this way; a few weeks ago I was climbing the Great Wall of China. Now I spend my days job hunting and hanging out with a bunch of screaming toddlers fighting over which Scooby Doo movie to watch. (My mom is a daycare provider)

But things are looking up: summer in Minnesota means outdoor concert season, and I have three on the agenda already.

Rock the Garden
Rock the Garden is sponsored by the best radio station in the entire world, 89.3 The Current. (Not even exaggerating) The lineup has yet to be announced, but there are rumors that MGMT will be on the bill, which would make my summer.



Jack Johnson
I found out today that Jack Johnson, my all-time favorite musician, is touring to promote his new album 'To the Sea.' I've seen him twice already at Floatrite Park in Somerset, and I'll be buying tickets for his July 25th concert as soon as they go on sale this Saturday.



Lollapalooza
And finally, there's Lollapalooza in the beginning of August in Chicago's Grant Park. I'm not going to lie, Lady Gaga on the lineup cinched it for me, but I'm also a big fan of the The Strokes and The Black Keys.

She's crazy, but I love her!

I also begin my foray into the world of substitute teaching tomorrow. Thankfully, because I'm really, really tired of Scooby Doo.

Friday, April 2, 2010

Look Mom, I cooked!

(Written March 18th, 2010)

I just had the most amazing four-course Lao meal; cooked by yours truly!

Okay, "cooked" is maybe a strong word. I took an evening cooking course here in Luang Prabang, and the instructor had already prepared all the ingredients, I mostly just chopped vegetables and meat and pushed it around in a wok until he said it was done.

If cooking was always like this, as in the ingredients magically appeared before me in pre-portioned little bowls and I was under careful supervision, I might do it more often. (I am complete dunce in the kitchen, see previous posts for evidence)

My favorite dish we made was the "Panaeng Gai," which is chicken and minced pork in coconut sauce and chili paste. Mmmmm.

I even ate the "Tom Chaeow Pha," which is white Mekong fish with eggplant and galangai, or oyster mushrooms. As someone who utterly despises fish/seafood, even after 18 months in Korea, this was a big deal for me.

I wish I would have taken a similar course in Korea, because even though I tried all sorts of Korean dishes, I haven't a clue how they were prepared.

Lao cuisine is actually very similar to Thai cuisine, only they eat "khao nioouw" or sticky rice, with every meal rather than steamed rice. I tried sticky rice with eggplant dip for lunch today, and it was surprisingly delicious. When the waiter brought it to my table, I wasn't sure how to eat it, but you just use your hands. This would never fly in the States where we are perhaps overly concerned about food sanitation, but it was really good.

Monday, March 15, 2010

Tiger Kingdom


Last year when I visited Thailand, I really wanted to go to 'Tiger Temple' near Bangkok, which is advertised as a "sanctuary" for orphaned tigers run by Buddhist monks. I ended up running out of time and skipping it, but that turned out to be okay. Friends who visited later said that they dope the tigers so they're calm and sedated and tourists can come and take pictures with them, which I don't really agree with.

Also, at a lot of these animal tourist attractions in Thailand, the animals aren't treated very well**. Last year on Ko Chang we rode elephants that were kept chained up in little stalls when they weren't carting tourists around, and after that experience, I wasn't keen on supporting such tourist attractions.

However on my outing yesterday I met a friendly trio of Australians who had been to 'Tiger Kingdom' here in Chiang Mai, and they said that to their knowledge, the tigers weren't sedated, and they seemed to be treated well. So this morning I took a tuk-tuk out there before visiting the Pandas at Chiang Mai Zoo. (They wake them up at 3pm everyday for visitors)

Tiger Kingdom had different packages you could buy, and I splurged and paid about 50 USD for the 4 in 1 ticket, meaning I got to go in all four tiger cages; newborn, small, medium and "big cat." It sounded like a good deal, but when I was already scared of the 6 week old tiger that kept trying to bite me in the "newborn" cage, it wasn't a good sign.

Each cage/tiger size got increasingly terrifying. The scariest were the "medium" sized tigers, because they sat me down among three year-old tigers to take pictures. It was one of the scariest things I've ever done, and I was perfectly content snapping a few quick pictures and getting the heck out of that cage.

A very terrifying moment in life:


I was trembling when I went into the last cage with the "big cats," who were all around 21 months old. Luckily these ones were mostly napping and not as feisty as the smaller tigers. The staff told me to lay my head down on one tiger's belly for a photo, which I reluctantly did, and I heard its stomach gurgling!


It was well worth the 50 USD and a few heart-pounding minutes in each cage. If you ever find yourself in Chiang Mai (which you should, I absolutely love this city) it's worth checking out. And according to the signs, the tigers here are not drugged. It said that because the tigers have been raised in captivity, they are used to being around humans, and that tigers are generally more active at night. They are also fed twice a day (chicken, I asked) and therefore don't have the desire to hunt.

However, it was still an 'enter at your own risk' type of situation, and the ticket price includes healthcare costs if a tiger indeed bites your hand off.

**More info. about reports of animal abuse: http://thaiwildorchids.com/tiger-temple-abuse.htm

Saturday, March 13, 2010

Greetings from Thailand!

Ko Samet, a little island about 3.5 hours from Bangkok by bus

My sister has been bugging me about updating this, so I'm just going to share a few snippets from my journal before I go visit a Hmong Hill tribe here in Chiang Mai (super excited about that!)

March 2nd, 2010 (Bus from Bangkok to Ko Samet)

I'm finding myself missing Korea already; pangs in the chest actually, and I get all excited about any Korea-related sightings here in Bangkok. Today the Girls Generation "Oh" music video was playing at Siam Center. I wonder how long this will last, or if I really will have to move back there, like my friends are encouraging.

It's nice seeing a classier side of Bangkok this time around. Staying in Josie and Mark's apartment is a lot different than staying in the madness that is Khao San Road like last year. And Siam Center (shopping mall) was really fancy, it had one of the nicest movie theaters I've ever been to.

March 5th (Plane to Phuket)

And I'm off! I've only had one minor setback on this trip so far, which was an excess baggage fee of 175,000 won at Incheon Airport, but otherwise it's going well so far. I did an overnight to Ko Samet with Mark and Josie, saw a Muay Thai boxing match last night, and now I'm headed south to Phuket.

I'm traveling (mostly) alone for a month, and my biggest fear going into this trip was getting my wallet, expensive camera, and/or passport stolen. In reality, it's more likely that I lose one of these myself considering I'm a total space cadet. The other day I took cash out of an ATM near Josie and Mark's apartment, and as I was walking away, a Thai lady chased me down and tapped me on the back. She had my receipt and ATM card in her hand! It makes me happy that there are honest people everywhere, even here in Bangkok, which people usually think of as shady.

Josie and Mark have been gracious hosts, letting me store my crap (and there's a lot of it) at their place in Bangkok while I'm off gallivanting. Still missing Korea...I got really excited last night at McDonald's (nothing else was open at 11 pm after the boxing match) when they played Super Junior and Big Bang. I miss speaking Korean too.

March 5th (Phi Phi Island)

Yikes. Phi Phi is a lot more expensive than anticipated. Also, I'm pretty sure it's one of the most beautiful places in the world, which means I have to share it with everyone in the world. This place (Ton Sai Village) is a zoo.. like mini Cancun or something. Maybe I'll find a more chill beach for tomorrow night.

They have all these awesome excursions though - sailing, snorkeling, camping trips to 'The Beach.' Definitely want to do one of those.

Seriously though, this is not at all how I pictured it. I thought it would be at least a little more remote. I'm kind of missing our calm, tranquil beach on Ko Samet.


March 6th (Phi Phi Island)

Found cheaper digs today (300 baht/night, which is about 9 USD) and some good swimming beaches. The beach here in the village (Ao Lo Dalum) at low tide was highly disappointing, but is great at midday. Then I booked the half day snorkel tour and got to swim with fish, see Ko Phi Phi Leh, and Maya Bay, a.k.a. "The Beach," which actually isn't that great. It's beautiful, but not the best swimming beach. The best part was the snorkeling for sure. It was amazing; so many fish, giant coral clusters...amazing. I want to go again if possible.

I ran into some Koreans getting on a cruise ship today, I was suspicous when I saw their matching towels and ajumma visors, (albeit more tropical-looking than the ones worn in Seoul) and I asked in Korean if they were indeed Korean. We chatted for a bit before boarding our respective boats, and it was nice to speak Korean again, even if only for a few minutes.

*More to come... have to head out now!

Thursday, February 11, 2010

DMZ Tour

With my days in Korea winding down, there were two last things I wanted to check off my list. One was see a Big Bang concert, and the other was tour the DMZ. Unfortunately Big Bang didn't work out, but last Saturday my friend Bonnie and I went on the USO tour of the DMZ, and it was, in one word, fascinating. I can't believe I waited so long to do it.

For those of you who don't know, the DMZ (or Demilitarized Zone) is the strip of land running across the Korean Peninsula that serves as a buffer zone between North and South Korea. The DMZ cuts the Korean Peninsula roughly in half, crossing the 38th parallel. It is the most heavily guarded border in the world. (thank you, Wikipedia) It's also only about an hour by bus from Seoul.

The beginning of our tour took us to the Joint Security Area (or in Korean, Panmunjom), where North and South Korean soldiers stand face to face every day. The area is used by the two countries for diplomatic meetings. At one point our tour group was standing across from the main North Korean building, Panmungak, where a North Korean soldier was watching our every move through binoculars. We were told not to point or make any gestures in the direction of North Korean soldiers that could be used as propaganda, so during question time when a few members of our tour group forgot and starting pointing and gesturing, I freaked out a little bit. I had visions flashing in my head of the North Korean watching us whipping out a machine gun and blasting it in our direction. Luckily that never happened, and that was the only scary part of the tour.

The JSA - The conference buildings where the North and South hold meetings


Bonnie and I (and an ROK soldier) standing on either side of the Demarcation Line. Bonnie's on the North Korean side.


North Korean soldiers who came out to watch our tour group


The tour brought us to a few other historically significant spots, such as the site of the "Axe murder Incident" in 1976, where two U.S. Army officials were axed to death by DPRK soldiers while supervising a tree pruning. The tree was blocking sight lines between two security checkpoints on the JSA.

That was just one of many incidents that show the North Koreans haven't been holding up their end of the deal. The coolest part of the tour was crawling through "The 3rd Tunnel," one of four tunnels apparently designed for a surprise attack on Seoul from North Korea. North Korea first claimed they didn't dig it, but the direction of the dynamite blasts point towards South Korea. So then they claimed it was part of a coal mine, and there is actually black "coal" painted on the walls. However, experts have said coal is geologically unlikely in the area.

The last part of the tour took us to Imgingak, a park that was built around "Freedom Bridge," where at the end of the Korean war, 13,000 prisoners of war walked to freedom in the South. The story says that as they crossed the bridge, they cried out in thanks for their freedom, giving the bridge its name.

Because many families were separated after the war, the park was built to console those who are unable to return to their hometowns during important holidays, like this weekend's Lunar New Year. People come to the park instead and pray for their loved ones.

I've been living in Korea for almost a year and a half now, about an hour away from the North Korean border, yet in my day to day life here, North Korea doesn't affect me at all. When you live here, you forget that technically, the two countries are still at war. However, going on the tour reminded me of the reality of the situation. Families were separated, lives were lost, and the North Korean people continue to live in under a totalitarian dictatorship.

Man saying a prayer at Imjingak


Prayers for peace, reunification, loved ones at Freedom Bridge


More pictures of my DMZ tour here

Tuesday, February 2, 2010

How to Dance K-Pop Style 2009

Simon and Martina of Eatyourkimchi.com have done it again. They've put together another video of the year's top K-pop dance moves!

I have to say it's not as funny as its predecessor, but it's still a spot-on overview of the songs that have been drilled into my head for the past year.

Be sure to check out Simon's dramatic reading of Shinee lyrics at 5:17, as well as the Choco Boy impersonation at the end.



This video actually makes me sad, when I think about all the K-pop I'm going to be missing out on in 2010.

Wednesday, January 20, 2010

Jo Jo

Okay, I was mistaken when I said there weren't any good K-pop songs out right now. Shinee saved the day with their new single "Jo Jo." They haven't made a video yet, but my Winter Camp students showed me this live version of them sporting back-to-the-early-90's hip hop gear. I don't know how I feel about that, but the song, like any good K-pop song, is addicting.

Tae Min is the one in the purple hat and star tattoo next to his eye. I'm not sure what their stylist was on that day...

Monday, January 18, 2010

Letdown

Alas, I finally heard back from Westgate Corporation in Japan today, and I didn't get the job.

They said that the hiring pool was very competitive; and since I don't have experience working with adults or a CELTA certificate, they couldn't offer me a position at this time. They said to reapply when I had obtained one of the above. But the thing is; I like kids. I don't really want to teach adults, which is why I didn't get a CELTA certificate in the first place. The University students I would have taught are only a few years older than my current students.

I had a bad feeling when they said they would let me know their decision in about two weeks, and then I didn't hear from them until now, a month later. I shouldn't have banked on getting that job and looked into other options, but as a self-proclaimed commitment-phobe, I really liked the idea of a 3 month contract. Even though I'd be unemployed again in July, it gave me more time to figure out what to do in the fall. I was also over-confident that I would get it given my three years of experience and actual teaching degree and license; something a lot of my fellow ESL teachers don't have.

I'm kind of bummed because I was really excited about living in Japan, but I guess this is a good thing; I'll have more time at home with my friends and family and can spend some time thinking about what it is I really want to do next.

I know that I'm not ready to go home for good just yet. There is still a lot more world out there that I want to see. Stay tuned...

Thursday, January 14, 2010

January 15, 2010

Had a short chat in Korean with the 7-11 lady this morning. This always happens: just when I've reached a communicable level in a foreign language, I leave the country. (Happened when I lived in France too)

Pretty, fluffy snowflakes falling again this morning. As I was waiting for a cab in front of my neighborhood Paris Baguette watching them fall, I had a moment. A "damn; I'm going to miss this place" moment. I can't believe how fast these last 2 months are going.

K-Pop 2010

I haven't been impressed with the K-pop charts these days. The number 3 song this week, "Bo Beep," by T'ara, is maddening actually. (The girls sing "Bo Beep Bo Beep Bo Beep over and over again) Some girl was listening to it on the bus the other day and I nearly lost it. Thank God for I-pods.

This is the one song out right now that I actually do like. "You and I" by 2ne1's Park Bom. Like most Korean music videos, it's super cheesy and melodramatic. And I don't want to be a hater, but I just want to point out a few unrealistic aspects of the video, lest people think that Korea is a Utopian land full of cupcakes and idyllic natural scenery. Just doing my part to shatter the Confucian ideal of keeping up appearances, one blog post at a time.

For one, Korean weddings don't take place in churches. Instead they have these huge wedding halls that people rent out for the afternoon. Secondly, where are all these big open fields and picket fences? I've never seen any in Korea. North and South Korea combined are about the size of the state of Minnesota, only with a bajillion more people. These idyllic nature scenes do not exist. Even the National Parks in Korea are overcrowded. They're like Disneyland with mountains.

Also, it seems like in Korean music videos, someone always has to die. The first Korean music video I ever saw was Big Bang's "Haru Haru," where two guys fight over this chic who ends up dying of some terminal illness. In this one, her new husband gets sick and dies. But if you've read past entries, you'll know that Koreans are sort of obsessed with health, and it carries over into pop culture.

Alright, I'll shut up now and post the video.

Tuesday, January 12, 2010

Guest blogger: My little sister :)

Thoughts on Korea

I just got home from spending almost two weeks in South Korea visiting my big sister Taryn. And as a self-acclaimed #1 reader of this blog (there are actual statistics to back up this claim) I offered to be a guest writer. Unfortunately for you, I am not as creative a writer as my big sis and words do not flow as eloquently from me. So, I have decided to make lists. It’s what I’m good at and, call me crazy, what I love doing. I must have taken all the organizational genes while Taryn got all the creative ones. As I list my likes and dislikes and general observations of my time in Korea… keep in mind that I was only there for 12 days and during a very cold streak. Therefore I did not get to see a whole lot or meet a ton of people to make my observations more generalized. I ask your forgiveness in advance.

Also, I add the question of whether I would come back to Korea if given the chance. I put this because when most people think about traveling to Asia—they think of the big cities of Tokyo, Beijing, Shanghai, and Hong Kong. No one really thinks of South Korea as a tourist “hot spot” or a “must see” when going to Asia. And really, I would have never gone there if it had not been for my sister living and working there. What I experienced in Korea made me fall in love with this place. It is difficult to describe exactly what it is about Seoul (or Korea in general) so I’m not even going to try. I would do it a great injustice. All I can do is this:

What I liked:

• #1 being the food: I even fell in love with kimchi
• The people: they were so polite and ready to offer a lost foreigner help and assistance
• Public transportation: how easy it was to get anywhere in the massive city of Seoul at a very cheap price (you will notice
it’s also one of my dislikes)
• That there was a coffee shop pretty much every other store on any block in Korea
• How much exercise I got from all the walking; I wish the US would encourage walking more
• All the shopping that you can find anywhere
• The language is so interesting and fun to listen to, yet extremely difficult to decipher the different sounds and words (it all
sounded the same to me because everything in the polite language ends the same way)

What I disliked:
• Most public restrooms were not heated
• Most public sinks did not have heated water
• Most public restrooms lacked either soap and/or toilet paper (or all of the above)
• The germs, due to lack of all of the above. Men hocking loogies all over the streets or subway stations—close quarters with people on the subways and buses—and the sudden changes from extreme cold weather outside to extreme heat on the subways….. makes any microbe want to have a party and multiply.
• Thus, public transportation (because of germs, and the snowstorm) is also one of my dislikes!

What I found pretty hilarious:
• Most of the Koreans were scared of us foreigners because we seem to be the root of the spread of swine flu (aka H1N1)
• That you have to take your shoes off to go into a dressing room at any clothing store (they’re pretty good at saying “shoes off!”)
• The language of “Konglish,” aka direct translations from Korean to English

Would I go back to Korea?
Answer: YES!!! I loved it there, despite the germs. The “likes” definitely outweighed the “dislikes.” Next time I go I will be more prepared with better walking shoes, more hand sanitizer, and I won’t go during the flu season.

In conclusion, (not to sound like an advertisement or anything…) if any of you are planning a trip to Asia ever in your life… do not overlook Korea. I hear in the summertime it is quite beautiful. Even in the wintertime there were moments that I was caught up in the beauty of the place (granted, I am a Minnesotan and do love snowy weather). If you never make it there, that’s ok. Chicago I hear has some great Korean restaurants. At least try the food!

Monday, January 4, 2010

An open letter to Seoul Metro Users

Dearest Fellow Commuters,

We all know that getting to and fro in Seoul is, more often than not, a pain in the arse. It's been even worse the past few days with the unusual amount of snow we've been getting. People who normally drive are flocking to the already over-crowded subways.

On my commute home today, I found myself wanted to strangle the nearest living thing at least three times. Thus, I have compiled a list of suggestions to users of the Seoul Metro, although many could be applied to people just walking on sidewalks.

1. How about we learn how to walk? Let me be more specific. What if we adhered to a ground-breaking system in which walkers stayed to the right, allowing a two-way flow of traffic? Oh wait! There are stickers and signs all over the metro telling you do this; you just don't!

2. On a related note, how about stepping to the side when you are texting/using your cell phone instead of stopping right in front of me? This too, allows for a continuous flow of traffic.

3. When someone in front of you is walking a little too slowly for your liking, what about walking around them rather than plowing into them? Seems to me like it would require less physical exertion.

4. When the train is full, what about simply waiting for the next one rather than shoving yourself and the people in front of you inside, nearly crushing people to death in the process? Where on earth are you going that is so important?

5. When people are lining up to get on the train, how about allowing the first person in line to also be the first person on the train, rather than plowing them out of your way? Ajummas, I'm talking to you. People don't stand in line because it looks cool.

Look, I know we're all in a hurry to get where we need to go, but I just don't think that trampling and shoving are a necessary part of the daily commute. Maybe that's just the Minnesota nice in me.

I can't wait for all this snow to melt, so that the drivers among us can go back to nearly running me over with their cars instead.

Cordially yours,

Annoyed Commuter